Ogawayama / free-climbing

Free climbing in Japan

If you go only one place for cragging in a short stay in Japan, you should definitely go to Ogawayama, in Kawakami villedge in Nagano pref.

Ogawayama is called as "a Japanese version of Yosemite", of course it is not at the size, but Ogawa yama is not just one of the place every climbers goes, it is the place everyone goes.

The reason why Ogawa yama is so popular among climbers are several;

1) There is a nice camping facilities..
2) There are over 700 routes, easy  to difficult, so climbers at any level can enjoy.
3)  You can do boulder, short pitch free climbing, crack and multi-pitch
4) There is a hiking trail so non-climbers too also has something to do.
5) It is relatively close to Tokyo,
6) You can climb rock except for winter time which snows in the region.
    (you can do ice climbing)
7) There are nearby famous, higher level cragging area, such as Mizugaki mountain, so you can have a choice.

Routes

Since I  do not do boulder,  I don't know much about boulder area, sorry. Thease are the routes that I have experienced, which means suitable for a beginner.

1) Haruno modori yuki (Spring Snow) 5.7 multi-pitch route (3P)

2) Tom to issyo (with Tom) 5.10 a single

3) Selection at Yaneiwa 2 nd peak. 5.9 multi-pitch route(6 to 7 pitch) Very famous.

4)Ogawayama Layback 5.9 crack single. It is also very famous

5)Ogawayama Story 5.9 single but long. This is very famous too.

6)Mara Rock area 5.9 to 5.10a  Mara rock is known for crack routes. There are several famous ones.

There are many guides bringing several climbing guests, so you'll be able to find a guide if you don't have a belayer but I don't know who to recommend because I never go with a guide.
But probably you'll find one if you ask around a local climbing gym or a shop.

Photos

tent site

from Yaneiwa 2nd peak to the 3rd 

Haruno modori yuki

ogawayama rayback

Useful URL

Mawarime taira Camp field

Climbing Net 
This is the site to tell you where to go.

Japanese Free climbing association
They are taking care of access issues in Japan.

Carafate
The climbing gear shop in Tokyo, they are the expert on Japanese free climbing.

Iwane Sanso 
An accomodation near by.They make an ice tree in winter and it is very famous among ice climbers.

Oawayama dot com
For topos, and detailed guides.

Climbing Gym list in Japan
You'll find the person who knows how. If not contact me.

The base camp 
This is the gym Yuji Hirayama runs.

Adventure seekers
The guide and school. I have never used it but written in English.