Mt.Mitsutouge / Alpine rock

Mt.Mitsutouge as a practice field

Mt. Mitsutouge has a lot of faces,  known at first, for a wild flower which you can only see in this mountain. Also, known for a great view of Mt.Fuji, ice climbing, rock climbing, and shower climbing. This makes the place a popular destination for all the people, from beginners to veteran climbers.

For rock climbers, Mitsutouge is always a practice field to challenge the alpine routes other higher mountains such as Hodaka in North Japanese Alps. The serious mountaineers in Japan, usually sets his/her schedule on Mitsutouge at first thing in the alpine climbing season, so you can start the season smoothly.

So Mitsutouge is an another word for alpine climbing. You, of course, have to practice your rope work before you go to the  routes in mountains in high altitude, but also, Mitsutouge is a good place to introduce the ropework for a beginners. Mitsutouge, or Touge in short, among the climbers, is suitable for this use.

However, even if you do not intend to do rope practice, this rock climbing fields offers a great view of Mt.Fuji behind the climber. Since is is the place used for practice, the routs is not at alll difficult. Grade III to VI is what they offer. (See Grade system here) All you have to take care in Mitsutouge is rock fall. The rock fall by rope dragging could hit a hiker way down below the climber. Don't cause the rock fall.

Except for that you will enjoy great view and a fun climbing.

There are two huts in this mountain, Mitsutouge sansou and Shikirakuen. The Shikirakuen is the hut usually climbers and climbing guides hang around.

Mitsutouge has only 1785 meter height, so in the mid summer it is too hot to climb on, the best season is Spring or Fall, i.e. May to November, except for a humid hot day.

Routes
The most popular are Chuou kante (central kante) in Byoubu Rock Right face. There are a lot of routes so consult with topo. The most famous topo book in Japan is called Nihon 100 Iwaba.(Japanese 100 rock sites).

Photos 

view of Mt.fuji

Alternative Destination

If you come to crag in Mitsutouge and unfortunately rained, you can just hike the mountain. The mountain has several hiking routes. The illustrated route map is this. 

Other suggestion is to go to a indoor climbing gym. There is the only one climbing gym in this area.

Pirania Fujiyoshida

Useful URL

Official Travel Guide 
This site has a map and written in English.

Hiking report in English

Ogawayama / free-climbing

Free climbing in Japan

If you go only one place for cragging in a short stay in Japan, you should definitely go to Ogawayama, in Kawakami villedge in Nagano pref.

Ogawayama is called as "a Japanese version of Yosemite", of course it is not at the size, but Ogawa yama is not just one of the place every climbers goes, it is the place everyone goes.

The reason why Ogawa yama is so popular among climbers are several;

1) There is a nice camping facilities..
2) There are over 700 routes, easy  to difficult, so climbers at any level can enjoy.
3)  You can do boulder, short pitch free climbing, crack and multi-pitch
4) There is a hiking trail so non-climbers too also has something to do.
5) It is relatively close to Tokyo,
6) You can climb rock except for winter time which snows in the region.
    (you can do ice climbing)
7) There are nearby famous, higher level cragging area, such as Mizugaki mountain, so you can have a choice.

Routes

Since I  do not do boulder,  I don't know much about boulder area, sorry. Thease are the routes that I have experienced, which means suitable for a beginner.

1) Haruno modori yuki (Spring Snow) 5.7 multi-pitch route (3P)

2) Tom to issyo (with Tom) 5.10 a single

3) Selection at Yaneiwa 2 nd peak. 5.9 multi-pitch route(6 to 7 pitch) Very famous.

4)Ogawayama Layback 5.9 crack single. It is also very famous

5)Ogawayama Story 5.9 single but long. This is very famous too.

6)Mara Rock area 5.9 to 5.10a  Mara rock is known for crack routes. There are several famous ones.

There are many guides bringing several climbing guests, so you'll be able to find a guide if you don't have a belayer but I don't know who to recommend because I never go with a guide.
But probably you'll find one if you ask around a local climbing gym or a shop.

Photos

tent site

from Yaneiwa 2nd peak to the 3rd 

Haruno modori yuki

ogawayama rayback

Useful URL

Mawarime taira Camp field

Climbing Net 
This is the site to tell you where to go.

Japanese Free climbing association
They are taking care of access issues in Japan.

Carafate
The climbing gear shop in Tokyo, they are the expert on Japanese free climbing.

Iwane Sanso 
An accomodation near by.They make an ice tree in winter and it is very famous among ice climbers.

Oawayama dot com
For topos, and detailed guides.

Climbing Gym list in Japan
You'll find the person who knows how. If not contact me.

The base camp 
This is the gym Yuji Hirayama runs.

Adventure seekers
The guide and school. I have never used it but written in English.