Thursday, August 20, 2015

Mt Myoujin Syuryou

Myoujin Syuryou (main ridge) / North Japanese Alps

This route is a variation route, i.e. alpine climbing. A person without no mountaineering training should not step into this route.

The skills that require for this route are;

1) Route finding skill,  since there is no trail is made on this route. However, you can see obvious trace of the other people had walked, place to place. Sometimes it is vague... so you must be able to find the proper route by yourself.

2) Primary level rock climbing skill or rappelling skill. If you go to Mt.Myojin(2931) to Mt.Maeho, you will only need rappelling. From Mt. Maeho to Mt.Myojin, you'll need 2 pitch of climbing. Climbing it self is not difficult at all, not even a decimal grade yet but you must know what is talked about.

3)Walk skill without causing rock fall.  The trail is very rocky and easy to cause rock fall.

The route and map



Time

 The over all travel time was 12 hours and half with one bivaugue.

Sample:
 Starting at Kappa bridge(1505) at 5:30 am
 The Dakesawa hut at 7:30 am leaving there at 7:45 am
 The sumit of Mt. Maeho(3090) at 10:40 leaving at 11:00 am

 The sumit of Mt. Myojin at 12:30 pm
 The 5th peak of Mt.Myojin(2726) at 15:30 pm

 Day 2 from the 5th peak to the Kappa bridge, 2 hours and a half

including 2p of climbing at the 2nd peak. If you travel reverse, you only need to rappel this pitch.

There are several bivi sites, most comfortable with space is the shoulder of the 5th peak. It is popular to take the first night at this spot, then next day climb on to Mt. Myojin.  There is no water on this route so you must bring all you drink. We carried 2.5 to 3L per person for 2 day trip (two meal, dinner and breakfast).

The gear should include a rope, 8.5mm x 50m (and a set of cams), slings and biners. Wear a helmet. No need of climbing shoes.

Photos  

This is how it lookes... it is very quiet even though we went there at high season.





















Access

1) Goto Sawando National Park Gate (shuttle bus terminal)

2) Using a shuttle taxi(900JPY this time depending on the number of people,) or a bus(2100JPY in return trip), goto Kamikouchi Bus terminal. expect about 1000JPY for one way,

Prices of the other things 

1) 100JPY (about $1) for using a toilet at Kamikouchi Bus terminal and at a hut

2) 100JPY for water supply

3) You can also take a public bath at Sawando,  700JPY

Useful URL
https://www.kamikochi-vc.or.jp/en/know/nationalparkgate.html

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